Walker Bag Pattern Crochet Along

I created this walker bag pattern when my Mother-in-law began to need to use a walker years ago. Now that my mother is using a walker, she needs one of these as well. Therefore, I thought I would share the pattern with you.

In fact, I had the pattern available for sale on both Ravelry and Craftsy at one time.Then Craftsy changed and deleted all my patterns. Ravelry also became political. You may sell the products you make from this pattern. However, I ask that you do not share or sell the pattern itself. If someone wants the pattern, please send them here. They can get it for free. Alternatively, they can visit my Etsy shop when the CAL is complete. They can purchase a PDF if that is the format they would prefer. I hope you enjoy this pattern. If you would like me to share more patterns, let me know in the comments below.

A printer friendly version of this pattern is available here:

Etsy Listing Walker Bag Pattern

Pick up a set of my favorite crochet hooks here: BCMRUN Crochet Hooks Set with Case 14 Size Blue and White Porcelain Pattern for Arthritis Hands, 2.25mm(B)-10mm(N) Crochet Needles for Beginners, Mothers Day Gift, Crochet Lovers

You can find my favorite yarn bowl here: Hind Handicrafts Premium Solid Handmade Crafted Metallic Finish – Aluminum Portable Yarn Storage Bowl – Holder for Knitting Crochet Hook Accessories

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Part 1 is available below with a link to the tutorial video. Stay tuned and make sure you subscribe to me on Youtube to find when I post a new video. Part 2 will be available Monday Jan 10th, YAH willing. See you then!!

Materials List

• Yarn –  Approx 5 Skeins of cotton or cotton blend or 1 cone (140 yards each skein/700 yards total) You can also use same weight of wool or acrylic.
• Medium weight #4  Worsted weight acrylic can be substituted as well. *For the black bag I used Lily Peaches and Cream. For the multicolor bag I used Premier Home Cotton Blend 1-1/2 yellow, 1 orange, and 1-3/4 red each were 80 gram balls

• Crochet Hook – 4.25mm G or H  (Smaller than recommended for the yarn because you want tight stitches to prevent weight from stretching the stitches out)

• Two 3/4” – 1” Buttons

Abbreviations

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch – YO, insert HK in indicated ST. YO, pull loop through ST and make loop the same height as previous STs in working row, YO. Repeat 3 times, YO, pull through all loops on HK, CH 1. See illustration below

Standing SC – Turn, insert HK into indicated ST, YO again and pull through loops.

Standing HDC – Turn, YO,  insert HK into indicated ST, YO again and pull through loops.

Instructions

Part 1

CH 145.

Row 1: Work a standing HDC in the first bottom loop from HK repeat to end of row in bottom loops. Turn. (Working in the bottom loops gives a finished edge which helps when we get ready to sew or crochet the edges together.) You should have 144 HDCs.

Rows 2-4: Work a standing HDC; HDC across the row. Turn.

Rows 5-6: CH up 2, work DCs  across the row. Turn.

Row 7: CH up 2, *CH 1, SK 1, DC* repeat across.DO NOT CHAIN UP!

Row 8: This row is worked over top of Row 7. *CH 1, SK 1, DC* repeat across. This row ends with a CH 1 and SL in the last DC of the previous row (Row 7). Turn.

Row 9: Work a standing SC. SC across. Please note: You will be crocheting Row 7 and Row 8 together. OR you can do as I have done in the crochet along video and work a SC in each CH 1 space, alternating rows (SEE VIDEO). Count to make sure you have 144 SCs. Turn.

Part 1 Video Crochet Along

Part 2

Row 10-11: Work a standing HDC; HDC across the row. Turn.

Row 12-13: CH up 2, work DCs  across the row. Turn.

Row 14-16: Repeat rows 7-9. Turn.

Row 17-18: CH up 2, work DCs  across the row. Turn.

Part 2 Video

Part 3

Row 19: CH up 2,. Work 3 DCs, Work a Puff Stitch. *Work 4 DCs. Work a Puff Stitch.*  Repeat * to the end of the row. Turn.

Row 20: Work a standing SC over DC’s and over puff stitches across the row. Please note that over the puff stitches, you will SC 2-together.

Row 21: Work a standing SC. SC across the row. Turn.

Row 22-23: Work a standing HDC; HDC across the row. Turn.

Row 24: CH up 2, work DCs across the row. Turn.

Row 25: Work a standing SC. SC across the row. Turn.

Row 26: CH up 2, work DCs  across the row.

Sew, SC, or SL the two sides together.

Part 3 Video

Part 4

Cell Phone and Water Bottle Pockets

Cell Phone Pocket 1:

Ch 20.

Row 1: Work a standing SC in second chain from HK. SC across (18 for total of 19). Turn.

Rows 2- 19: Work a standing SC. SC across. Turn.

**First, sew this pocket onto one side of the bag. It doesn’t matter which side you choose. Next, measure about an inch in from one of the outside edges, ensuring that you don’t sew through both sides of the bag.You want the cell phone and water bottle pockets on the outer edges so the ties and button straps will support the weight. Note that you will sew the cell phone pocket on the same side as this one but on the other outer edge. See photos. It helps to pin or use a string to temporarily tie these in place while you’re sewing them on. You can make additional pockets to sew into the inside as shown in the video.

Water Bottle / Pocket 2:

Ch 3, Sl st to close or start with a magic circle.

Row 1: Work one standing HDC; work 5 HDC. Turn.

Row 2: Work a standing HDC; and HDC in same space. Work 2 HDC in each ST. Turn.

Row 3: Work a standing HDC; and HDC in same space. *1 HDC in next space. 2 HDC in next space.* Repeat * to end of row. Turn.

Row 4: Work a standing HDC; and HDC in same space. *1 HDC in each of next 2 spaces. 2 HDC in next space.* Repeat * across. Turn.

Row 5: Work a standing HDC; and HDC in same space. *1 HDC in each of next 3 spaces. 2 HDC in next space.* Repeat across. Turn.

Row 6: Work a standing HDC; and HDC in same space. *1 HDC in each of next 4 spaces. 2 HDC in next space.* Repeat across. Turn.

Row 7: Work a standing HDC in the front loop of first space. Work 1 HDC in front loop of each space to end of row. Turn.

Row 8-11: Work a standing HDC. Work 1 HDC in each space to end of row and turn.

Row 12-19: CH 2, work DC in next space. *CH 1, SK 1, DC*. Repeat * across. End the Row with a DC in the last 2 spaces. Tie off.

Notes:

*Sew this pocket on bag, ensuring it is on the same side at the other pocket, close to the outer edge, and don’t sew through both sides of the bag.

**Sew, SC or SL the bottom closed. Tie off and work in ends.

***OPTIONAL You can easily turn the single large pocket into two smaller pockets. First, measure and find the center of the bag. Then, SL or sew along the center to divide the pocket. This will create two separate, large main pockets.

Part 4 Video

Part 5

The Finishing Touches

Work a row of RSC around the top edge. Tie off.

Sew 2 buttons on the top of the bag approximately 3-4″ from each side.

Crocheting the Straps with Buttonholes:

Straps should be approximately 12” long and 2” wide. Please see the video for how to adjust the straps to accommodate larger or smaller buttons.

CH 46

Row 1: Work Standing SC in the first back loop and work SCs across the row. Turn.

Row 2-3: Work Standing SC, and SC across the row. Turn

Row 4: Work a Standing SC. Work 2 SC. CH 3, SK3. SC across row. Turn

Row 5: Work a Standing SC. SC across the row. In CH3 space from previous row work 3 SCs in the back loops. Work the last 3 SC. Turn

Row 6-7: Work a Standing SC. SC across Row. Turn.

Row 8 (Optional): Reverse SC all the way around the strap. Tie off and work in tail.

Sew your straps onto the bag.

A note about the strap placement: You have the option to either crochet or sew the straps on each side, depending on how you prefer the bag to hang. In my experience, the bag tends to hang more smoothly when the straps are placed on the sides (as seen with the black bag) and centered above the button. This also makes it easier to put in and pull out items from inside the main pockets. In the multi-color bag pictured below, I placed the straps closer to the center of the bag. As a result, it hangs a little awkwardly. I did fix this, but I did include these photos, so you can see the difference in how it hangs from the bar with the straps placed toward the outer edge verses more toward the center of the walker.

Part 5 Video

Part 6 FINAL

Sew your straps onto the bag.

A note about strap placement: You can crochet or sew the straps on either side, depending on how you prefer the bag to hang. However, it seems to hang better when the straps are placed on the sides (as seen with the black bag) and centered above the button. This also makes it easier to put in and pullout items from inside the main pockets. In the multi-color bag pictured below, I placed the straps closer to the center of the bag. As a result, it hangs a little awkwardly. I did fix this, but I did include these photos, so you can see the difference in how it hangs from the bar with the straps placed toward the outer edge verses more toward the center of the walker.

Decorating the bag!

Honestly, you can leave it one solid color and not put any decoration on it if you want; this may even be preferred if you’re making it for a man or someone who doesn’t like a lot of frills and fuss. I decorated these differently.

The multi-color bag

The multi-color bag I recently created features vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red. In addition, to enhance the design, I added “stems” using green cotton yarn, ensuring that each flower is unique. There are countless flower patterns available online for free, but I decided to freestyle it. Rather than following a specific pattern, I made each flower distinct. Additionally, I sewed a button into the center of every flower, with the largest flower having an entirely different button for a touch of contrast. My daughter affectionately refers to it as “Heavenly Father’s Garden.” To complete the look, I added a row of RSC at the top of the back two pockets.

The black bag

For the solid black bag, I made the same flowers and placed a button in the center of each, spacing them evenly across the front. Additionally, I crocheted the same flower pattern around the buttonholes, so that when the bag is buttoned, it appears as though the button is sewn into the center of the flower, just like on the front. Moreover, for the back two pockets, I topped them with “flower petals” in the same color as the flowers on the front, creating a nice contrast.

Two variegated bags

For the two variegated bags, I kept the decorations plain (white) or simple and classy. However, since you obviously crochet, you bring your own personal touch of creativity to the project. I would love to see how you mix it up and decorate your bags in your own unique style!

Supports

Ideally, the two main straps would be enough support, but….if the person you’re making it for is anything like my Mother-in-Law, they are going to need more support. I have designed additional support that can be added or removed depending on need.

You have to have both hands free to use a walker, so a lot of weight can sometimes be put in this bag. Which means that we need more support. During use, a walker bag that is unsecured can swing and potentially create a fall hazard. We don’t want that

Make 6 strands of 66 CH, pull through, and tie off (actually 65 chains). Pull one through each corner and center the chain tie. Then do this for each of the corners that need extra support. The left and right bottoms will need to be used, but the top left and right corners and center tie are optional. These are simple little ties that will hold the bag in place. Pull the last one through the center top and tie so it doesn’t pull out. (see video 6) When attaching the bag to the walker, tie with bows so it can later be removed and washed as needed.

Final Thoughts

You can work this bag up in one solid color, which is my favorite, or you can even change colors every row if you’d like. For the multi-color bag pictured below, I changed colors on Rows 8, 15, and 19. Specifically, I used 1 ball of orange, 1-1/2 balls of yellow, and almost 2 full balls of red. Alternatively, you can use variegated yarn, as I did with the bags shown in the videos and pictured below.

Part 6 Video

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